Ch9 join into ring
Rnd 1: Sc 18 in ring (slip stitch to close all following rings)
Rnd 2: Ch3 (counts as fist dc), dc 17 (18 total)
Rnd 3: Ch 3, dc 17
Rnd 4: Ch 3, dc sp, *2 Dc in sp* repeat around (36 total)
Rnd 5: Ch 3, Dc 35
Rnd 6:Ch 3, dc in sp. *2 Dc each sp* repeat from * (72 total)
Rnd 7: Ch 3, Dc 71
Rnd 8: Ch 3, Dc 71
Rnd 9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) Dc 2 Ch 1 Dc 3 in same stitch (makes first fan)
*Skip 5 Dc 3 Ch 1 Dc 3 in same stitch* repeat * Join ends of first fan with second fan. (12 fans total)
slst over to ch1 space in first fan
Rnd 10: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) Dc 5 in same stitch (makes fan)
*Skip to next fan ch1 space. Make 6 dc in sp* and repeat between *'s around. Join ends of first fan with second fan.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, Sc around and join
Rnd 12: Ch 1, Sc around and join
Rnd 13-16: repeat Rnds 9 – 12
Now, we begin the bill of the hat, which will be worked back and forth rather than around.
Slst over 2 spaces above the center of the fan below it.
Row 17: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) Dc 2 Ch 1 Dc 3 in same stitch (makes first fan)
*Skip 5 Dc 3 Ch 1 Dc 3 in same stitch* Turn. (10 fans)
Slst over to ch1 space in fan.
Row 18: Ch 3 (counts as first dc) Dc 5 in same stitch (makes fan) *skip over to ch1 sp in next fan. Dc 6 in sp. Skip to next fan ch1 space and repeat *. Turn.
Row 19: Ch 2. Sc across. Turn.
Row 20: Ch 2. Sc across. Turn.
Row 21 & 22: Repeat Row 17 & 18
Row 23: Ch 3 (counts as first Dc) Dc across. Turn.
Row 24: Ch 2 (counts as first sc) Sc across. Turn.
Slst over 2 spaces above the center of the fan below it.
Row 25-32: Repeat rows 17-20 twice more.
Now to put on the edging.
Rnd 33: Sc around complete perimeter of bonnet.
Rnd 34: Beginning on middle of fan on the front corner. Ch 3. Dc 9 in same space. Skip sp. Sc. Skip sp. *Dc 10 in sp. Skip sp. Sc. Skip sp.* Repeat * across Join ends of last fan with first fan.
Rnd 35: *Dc, ch2 in sp.* Repeat around and bind off. Done!
You can thread any color ribbon you want in the Dc in the middle of the brim and through the bottom and front brim shells to secure it the head. Enjoy it as much as I have!
ETA: I've made several bonnets based on this pattern out of various weights of yarn and even different hook sizes, but here are the updated notes on it.
First off, I do not make a circle using rounds 1-16 above. That is the old fashioned way of doing it. I use the current system in which I do the following:
To Begin: Chain 4. Slst join.
Rnd 1: Ch 3, 5 dc in center of circle. Sl st in 3rd ch of ch 3, to join.
Rnd 2: ch 3, 2 dc in ea dc around. Sl st in first dc, to join.
Rnd 3: ch 3, (dc in next dc, 2 dc in next dc) around. Sl st in first dc, to join.
Rnd 4: ch 3, (dc in ea of next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc) around. Sl st in first dc, to join.
Additional Rnds: For each new round, add 1 extra dc stitch to the number of dc stitches between increases (an increase is done by making 2 dc in one stitch). For example, round 5 would have 3 dc between increases then round 6 would have 4 dc between increases and so on.
After I make the circle large enough to cover the back of the babies head, I start making the fans. My system is to ch3, 2dc, ch, 3dc in the same st, *skip 5, dc3, ch2, dc3 in same st*, and repeat between *'s until there is enough space for two more fans. ch3, turn.
On the way back make a 6dc fan in each ch2 space across making sure to connect the last dc with with the fan tip below it. Ch2, turn.
Crochet two rows of sc.
Repeat the two rows of fans and two rows of sc until it reaches the forehead of the baby.
Now, it's time for the border. Working along the outer edge of the entire bonnet including the front sides and back where there are no fans. I crochet 8 dc fans after every 5 sts. This insures a very ruffly border. Finally, I dc in every stitch around one more time to add more fullness.
Cut tail and weave in.